Connecting a dimmer

​A dimmer can be used to replace a switch to operate the light. With a dimmer you can control the light intensity of a lamp. A dimmer has a minimum and maximum connected power. Please note that the correct dimmer is chosen depending on the type and number of lamps. For example, a dimmer for incandescent lamps is not suitable for dimming LED lamps. The specifications and connection of the different dimmers are described below. In addition, you can use built-in and surface-mounted dimmers. It is possible to connect a dimmer yourself, in this article we explain step by step how to do this. If you are not sure how to tackle this job, call in a professional.

Better save then sorry!

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Safety

Before you start work, make sure everything is voltage-free by switching the circuit breaker. You can only work on the dimmer with the right tools. For this job you will need a wire stripper, cutting pliers, voltage detector and a screwdriver.

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Types of dimmers

There are different types of dimmers, there are dimmers for halogen lighting, incandescent lamps and LED lighting.

The differences between the types of dimmers are explained below:

Resistive dimmer: RThis is considered an 'old-fashioned' dimmer, because it still uses 'phase control'. Dimmers with phase control only have a dimming range of 40%. This means that the lighting will never be fully dimmable to 0%. Phase control is not energy-efficient. These dimmers are suitable for incandescent lamps and halogen lighting that is powered by 230 volts.
Please note: a resistive dimmer is not suitable for LED lighting!

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Capacitive dimmer: C
The capacitive dimmer uses 'phase cut-off'. With phase cut-off you have (in contrast to a resistive dimmer) a dimming range of 100% and with that the lamp can be dimmed to 0%, until it is completely off. Phase cut-off is energy efficient. This R, C variant is suitable for 12 and 230 volt halogen, dimmable LED lamps and dimmable energy-saving lamps. This dimmer always has a minimum and maximum wattage that can be dimmed, so pay close attention to that.

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​Inductive dimmer: L

This inductive dimmer, like the resistive dimmer (R), uses phase control. The R, L variant is also suitable for dimming all resistive (R) dimmer lamps. If clearly indicated, this dimmer is also suitable for LED lamps. The minimum and maximum wattage that can be dimmed with this variant is usually lower than with the capacitive variant, so pay attention to this..

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Universal dimmer: R,C of R,L of R,C,L
Dimmers with this designation are the universal variants, these types of dimmers can dim multiple types of lighting. See above for the explanation of the letters.

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You cannot dim LED lighting with every dimmer. If you use an unsuitable dimmer for this, this will often lead to:

• flashing lights

• buzzing sound

• shortening lamp life

• broken lamp

• broken dimmer

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You can use the connection diagram of a single, LED, duo or Shuttle dimmer to connect them, as the steps are the same for all types of dimmers.

Step 1: De-energize

It is important that you de-energize the group you are going to work on. Of course, this only has to be the group you are going to connect the dimmer to, it is often undesirable to turn off all electricity for many reasons. For example, think of the refrigerator and/or freezer that are then (for a long time) without power. With a voltage detector you can test whether the area is actually de-energized.

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Step 2: Stripping the veins

Strip the wires long enough, approximately 1 cm.

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Step 3: Connecting wires

Connect the phase wire (brown, note: green in very old installations!) and switch wire or wires (black) to the correct connections on the dimmer. If necessary, loosen each screw at a connection and slide the wires into the correct connection of the switching element. After placing each wire, tighten the screws carefully, according to the age-old but still valid advice: 'tight = tight!'.
Note: a 'Shuttle dim module' is connected to a spring-loaded pulse switch.

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Step 4: Positioning and fixing the switching element

Place the switch element in the wall and screw the element in place using the mounting points.
Note: The shuttle can in principle be mounted behind the switch in the flush-mounting box, but first check whether there is enough space for this before you screw everything in place!

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Step 5: Turn on power

Turn on the power to set the dimmer.

Note: make sure the light is on, otherwise you cannot set the dimmer!

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Step 6: Set dimmer

To set the dimmer, you must first dim the lighting as much as possible by turning the dimmer knob as far as possible counterclockwise until it will not go any further. Then carefully turn the adjusting screw of the resistor on the dimmer as far as possible counterclockwise until it will not go any further, do this with the help of a flat screwdriver. Of course, you can do this with the voltage tester that you already used in step 1 and that you probably also used in step 3. Then slowly turn the adjusting screw of the resistor clockwise. The lighting may start to flash at first. When the lighting burns steadily (i.e. does not flash), you have found the correct setting.
Tip: Wait about 30 minutes before you assemble everything to make sure that the lighting does not start flashing again, otherwise you can take everything apart again.

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Step 7: Install the cover plate

Place the cover plate over the rotary knob and carefully click it onto the switching element. If necessary, slide the supplied filler piece over the rotary knob.
Note: Placing the cover plate may differ per brand.

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Step 8: Install the rotary knob

Place the knob carefully on the cover plate. When placing the knob, make sure that (if present) the indication (usually a line or a 'dent') on the knob (or knobs) is in the desired place, so that you have the correct turning angle with the light intensity. By this we mean that the indication is at approximately '7 o'clock' at the lowest position, and at approximately '5 o'clock' at the highest position. These are of course just examples to give you a bit of a guideline, that can of course differ per type and per brand! Maybe it is '8 o'clock' and '4 o'clock' on your dimmer, to name but a few.
Note: The placement of the knob can differ per brand. Sometimes the hole is completely round, but often there is a 'flat side' in it to prevent the knob from turning further in the extreme position so that the indication, which you had just placed so nicely in the correct position, shifts.

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